{"id":69963,"date":"2022-05-05T11:12:52","date_gmt":"2022-05-05T09:12:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/monica-verge-vam-marcar-una-epoca-en-lalpinisme-i-una-pauta-per-a-les-dones\/"},"modified":"2023-03-19T17:28:45","modified_gmt":"2023-03-19T16:28:45","slug":"monica-verge-vam-marcar-una-epoca-en-lalpinisme-i-una-pauta-per-a-les-dones","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/monica-verge-vam-marcar-una-epoca-en-lalpinisme-i-una-pauta-per-a-les-dones\/","title":{"rendered":"M\u00f2nica Verge: Vam marcar una \u00e8poca en l’alpinisme i una pauta per a les dones"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

S\u00e8rie dones esportistes<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00f2nica Verge Folia va n\u00e0ixer a Barcelona l’any 1958, \u00e9s alpinista, escaladora i esquiadora. Va ser guarda de refugi i una precursora de l’escalada femenina.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Amb la tamb\u00e9 alpinista Magda Noos<\/strong> l’any 1989 va arribar al cim del Cho Oyu, de 8.201 metres, que va ser el primer vuit mil femen\u00ed de l’estat. Va ser membre de la candidatura \u00abPer una FEEC forta i Independent\u00bb l’any 2009 que reclamava un canvi de perspectiva pel futur de l’excursionisme a Catalunya.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"M<\/figure>\n\n\n\n


Com et vas comen\u00e7ar a dedicar a l’alpinisme?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Els meu pare i la meva mare ja eren muntanyencs i esquiaven, a casa ja es respirava aquest ambient des de ben petita i m’arrossegaven, jo no volia anar a la muntanya ni a caminar. A trav\u00e9s del CEC -Centre Excursionista de Catalunya- al que em van apuntar nom\u00e9s n\u00e9ixer em vaig anar introduint. Als 12 anys vaig comen\u00e7ar a esquiar i a partir d’un curs que vaig fer d’esqu\u00ed de muntanya un dels monitors, Salvador Campillo<\/strong>, em va portar a provar l’escalada i als 18 vaig comen\u00e7ar a fer escalada i esqu\u00ed de muntanya. Gr\u00e0cies a ell em vaig introduir i vaig fer tot el Pirineu, els Alps…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vas ser precursora de l’escalada femenina a l’estat, com ha estat ser de les primeres?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’any 1975 quan jo comen\u00e7ava hi havia molt poques noies i, de vegades, em trobava sola. De tant en tant trobava alguna noia a les parets. Erem molt poques i ens vam anar coneixent amb l’Anna Massip, la Meri Puig, la Mari Carme Magdalena \u00abCoco\u00bb. Amb els nois escal\u00e0vem per\u00f2 an\u00e0vem una mica a remolc i entre nosaltres f\u00e8iem un esfor\u00e7 superior i ens motiv\u00e0vem unes a les altres. Hi havia m\u00e9s complicitat i vam anar provant de fer vies juntes. La Meri Puig ens va proposar fer expedici\u00f3 juntes -de fet els homes muntaven les seves i mai no ens o proposs\u00e0vem- i vam anar fent expedicions femenines. Al 1984 vam muntar la primera expedici\u00f3 femenina a l’Himalaia, al Kangtega, de 6.782 metres. Vam fer una bona preparaci\u00f3 i l’equip era format per la pr\u00f2pia Meri Puig , Esperan\u00e7a Capella , Mari Carme Magdalena, Carme Melis, Lidia Riera i jo. Vam aconseguir fer cim.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Junt amb la Magda Nos vau ser les primeres dones, catalanes i de l’estat, a fer un 8.000.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Amb la Magda no ens coneix\u00edem, era m\u00e9s gran que jo i escalava amb muntanyencs de refer\u00e8ncia. Ella vivia a Nova York per temes de feina i all\u00e0 va participar en algunes expedicions mixtes per\u00f2 no van aconseguir fer cim. Ella tenia al cap fer un 8.000 i es va proposar de fer un amb altres dones alpinistes catalanes. Va venir a buscar l’equip a la Federaci\u00f3 -FEEC- amb dones que havien fet cims d’al\u00e7ada i ens va contactar. Va ser dif\u00edcil perqu\u00e8 del grup inicial per problemes diversos vam quedar dues. No trob\u00e0vem patrocinadors i era dif\u00edcil compatibilitzar-ho. La revista Lecturas ens va esponsoritzar i vam poder fer cim del Cho Oyu, el primer 8.000 femen\u00ed a Catalunya i l’estat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Com va ser l’experi\u00e8ncia i que va comportar despr\u00e9s?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vam marcar una \u00e8poca en l’alpinisme, i va marcar una pauta per a les dones. Les expedicions s\u00f3n costoses i va ser una manera d’obrir una mica les portes al finan\u00e7ament. A nivell personal em va donar molta confian\u00e7a en mi mateixa. Les dificultats van ser moltes abans i durant l’expedici\u00f3 i aix\u00f2 ajuda molt en la vida quotidiana, has de resoldre problemes dif\u00edcils i has de prendre decisions r\u00e0pides. Amb aquesta experi\u00e8ncia vaig adquirir for\u00e7a i la confian\u00e7a en la vida.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"130932826<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vas ser guarda de refugi i alpinista. Com \u00e9s ser dona i professional en un esport i un \u00e0mbit professional tan dif\u00edcil i “minoritari”?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ser professional de la muntanya \u00e9s molt dif\u00edcil, hi ha poca gent que ho ha aconseguit, per a homes i dones. Actualment poder n’hi ha m\u00e9s per\u00f2 no \u00e9s una cosa f\u00e0cil: ser guia, acompanyant… no hi ha molta gent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El m\u00f3n de l’alpinisme ha canviat molt els darrers anys, s\u00f3n menors les dificultats de log\u00edstica, l’acc\u00e9s a expedicions \u00e9s m\u00e9s assequible tamb\u00e9 per les dones?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crec que si, evidentment segueixen havent moltes dificultats per\u00f2 hi ha moltes m\u00e9s dones que fan alpinisme i referents importants actualment. No arribem al cent per cent per\u00f2 el nombre \u00e9s molt superior als inicis, comptem m\u00e9s per\u00f2 es mantenen moltes difer\u00e8ncies i avan\u00e7a a poc a poc encara. Evidentment hi hagut un canvi social que ho acompanya per\u00f2 l’alpinisme s’ha obert m\u00e9s a les dones.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quines van ser, i s\u00f3n, les teves referents?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Per mi sempre ha estat Wanda Rukiewitz<\/strong>, una alpinista polonesa que quan era jove era la meva \u00eddol, no va tenir una vida f\u00e0cil , va aconseguir tirar endavant i tenia una for\u00e7a arrolladora. En la muntanya em semblava \u00fanica i va ser una referent important per totes les dones alpinistes, ens va obrir l’Himal\u00e0ia! Va mori l’any 1992 en l’intent de fer el cim del Kangchenjunga. I ja fa uns anys per mi una altra que admiro profundament \u00e9s S\u00edlvia Vidal<\/strong>, una escaladora magn\u00edfica, una dona valenta que va ser premiada amb al Piolet d’or per la seva traject\u00f2ria que \u00e9s bon\u00edssima, brutal. Evidentment hi ha les pioneres, Maria Ant\u00f2nia Sim\u00f3<\/strong> i Carme Romeu<\/strong> de les primeres que van obrir cam\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"M<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

S\u00e8rie dones esportistes M\u00f2nica Verge Folia va n\u00e0ixer a Barcelona l’any 1958, \u00e9s alpinista, escaladora i esquiadora. Va ser guarda de refugi i una precursora de l’escalada femenina.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":63,"featured_media":38436,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[26815],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-69963","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-dones-esportistes"],"yoast_head":"\nM\u00f2nica Verge: Vam marcar una \u00e8poca en l'alpinisme i una pauta per a les dones | La Independent<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"M\u00f2nica Verge Folia va n\u00e0ixer a Barcelona l'any 1958, \u00e9s alpinista, escaladora i esquiadora. 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