{"id":67078,"date":"2019-05-09T16:15:25","date_gmt":"2019-05-09T14:15:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/fashion-revolution-el-mon-de-la-moda-ha-de-canviar\/"},"modified":"2024-11-15T17:25:03","modified_gmt":"2024-11-15T16:25:03","slug":"fashion-revolution-el-mon-de-la-moda-ha-de-canviar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/fashion-revolution-el-mon-de-la-moda-ha-de-canviar\/","title":{"rendered":"Fashion revolution. El m\u00f3n de la moda ha de canviar"},"content":{"rendered":"<\/p>\n

OPINI\u00d3<\/strong><\/p>\n

Eleg\u00e0ncia, colors, creativitat. Sabem que vestir-se no \u00e9s nom\u00e9s posar-se la primera roba que trobes obrint l’armari, sin\u00f3 veure’t i sentir-te b\u00e9 en unes peces que fan joc amb la teva personalitat. El mercat fa que les dones siguem unes grans consumidores de roba.<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Qu\u00e8 hi\u00a0t\u00e9 a veure aquest plaer amb l’augment exponencial del sector de la moda en aquests \u00faltims anys? No gaire, com veurem.<\/span><\/p>\n

Com reporten les associacions del sector, el m\u00f3n de les multinacionals de la moda est\u00e0 en plena expansi\u00f3, amb ofertes variades i un m\u00e0rqueting capil\u00b7lar. El 2017 s’han venut al m\u00f3n 154 bilions de peces, unes 20 de mitjana per persona, (sent 7,6 els bilions d’habitants del planeta, sense considerar la desigualtat dels consums entre pa\u00efsos i grups socials). Cada any Zara treu 24 col\u00b7leccions noves, H & M entre 12 i 16, i es ven el 60% de peces m\u00e9s que el 2000. Aix\u00f2 vol dir que cada pe\u00e7a \u00e9s usada cada vegada menys temps. <\/span><\/p>\n

Considerant que els recursos naturals del planeta no s\u00f3n infinits, es tracta d’un veritable malbaratament, ja que la moda resulta ser el segon sector industrial m\u00e9s contaminant, despr\u00e9s de la ind\u00fastria petroliera, perqu\u00e8 utilitza productes t\u00f2xics, (com en els texans destenyits), consumeixi molta aigua, i emet CO2 a dojo. A m\u00e9s la producci\u00f3 es concentra en gran part en els pa\u00efsos asi\u00e0tics, amb sous miserables. El 80% de les persones treballadores s\u00f3n dones. <\/span><\/p>\n

Parlem d’un salari mitj\u00e0 de 78 euros mensuals a Bangla Desh, quan un salari digne seria de 374 euros, segons la AFWA (\u00c0sia Floor Wage Alliance). A Cambogia H & M paga 166 euros mensuals, a Indon\u00e8sia 148, quan haurien de pagar respectivament 396 i 352 euros. Aix\u00f2 mentre l’empresa t\u00e9 beneficis estratosf\u00e8rics, que permetrien amb escreix millorar les condicions de treball. En realitat va ser la mateixa H & M, que despr\u00e9s de la commoci\u00f3 mundial succe\u00efda a la trag\u00e8dia del Rana Plaza, (l’edifici que es va ensorrar per un incendi el 2013 provocant 1.134 v\u00edctimes i 2.500 ferits), va anunciar millorar el salari de 850.000 treballadores i treballadors, per\u00f2 va oblidar molt aviat la promesa.<\/span><\/p>\n

Cal recordar que H & M, com altres multinacionals, no contracta directament els i les treballadores asi\u00e0tiques, sin\u00f3 empreses intermedi\u00e0ries que mantenen els salaris el m\u00e9s baixos possibles, imposen ritmes esgotadors de treball, en condicions d’inseguretat. Una pe\u00e7a produ\u00efda a un cost de 3 euro pot ser venuda en una boutique europea per 100 euro: un guany per a tothom, menys per qui treballa.<\/span><\/p>\n

Pel que fa a la marca Benetton, en el cas del Rana Plaza primer va negar estar-hi involucrada en la producci\u00f3, i nom\u00e9s despr\u00e9s de la campanya d’Avaaz, signada per un mili\u00f3 de persones perqu\u00e8 s’indemnitz\u00e9s les fam\u00edlies de les v\u00edctimes, va accedir a donar un aportaci\u00f3 a un fons voluntari institu\u00eft per les Nacions Unides, amb un 1.100.000 euro, o sigui 970 euro per fam\u00edlia, quan els seus guanys anuals eren de 126 milions. Va resultar ser l’\u00faltima a actuar entre les empreses de moda, com Auchan, Mango, H & M, que ja havien contribu\u00eft. Sempre sota la pressi\u00f3 de l’opini\u00f3 p\u00fablica mundial, despr\u00e9s del Rana Pla\u00e7a 220 firmes van subscriure un acord per prevenir altres incendis a Bangla Desh, realitzant inspeccions a les f\u00e0briques, i ara s’est\u00e0 discutint un altre acord, per tractar d’involucrar tamb\u00e9 productors de t\u00e8xtils no destinats a la roba, com Ikea, per millorar les condicions de treball.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c9s evident que seguir produint roba a baix cost, per a un consum superflu en els pa\u00efsos occidentals, explotant el treball i el medi ambient, en els pa\u00efsos del Sud del m\u00f3n, per acumular guanys exorbitants en poques mans (els famosos “rics que es fan m\u00e9s rics “, com els propietaris del grup Inditex) no \u00e9s sostenible, i tot el sistema ha de ser revisat i corregit. Com? Hi ha dues maneres per a contribuir-hi. Un, des de l’\u00e0mbit personal, \u00e9s consumir de manera intel\u00b7ligent, comprant nom\u00e9s el necessari, reciclant, intercanviant peces, sense per aix\u00f2 renunciar al bon gust i la fantasia. L’altre des d’una perspectiva global, donant suport a les organitzacions sense \u00e0nim de lucre que volen controlar les condicions de treball imposades per les multinacionals.<\/span><\/p>\n

Una d’elles, que es va crear a UK el 2007, i s’est\u00e0 expandint a nivell mundial en un centenar de pa\u00efsos, \u00e9s Fashion Revolution. El seu objectiu \u00e9s apostar a una ind\u00fastria de la moda que doni valor a la gent, el medi ambient, la creativitat i el guany empresarial (ara absolutament priorit\u00e0ria i sense regles) en la mateixa mesura. Una utopia, probablement. Per\u00f2 suposa una estrat\u00e8gia interessant, ja que no tracta de fer sentir culpable la gent, sin\u00f3 d’apel\u00b7lar al seu poder, com a consumidora, de provocar canvis positius. Per a aix\u00f2, primer cal saber com, on i qui produeix cada pe\u00e7a. Aquestes preguntes s\u00f3n la clau d’una campanya que es realitza l’\u00faltima setmana d’abril de cada any per\u00f2 es perllonga per tot l’any, demanant la participaci\u00f3 de les persones, en diverses iniciatives (per a majors informaci\u00f3:\u00a0<\/span>spain@fashionrevolution.org<\/a>).<\/span><\/p>\n

Una altra organitzaci\u00f3 sense \u00e0nim de lucre present a 17 pa\u00efsos \u00e9s Clean Clothes (Campanya Roba Neta-Setem) que demana a la Uni\u00f3 Europea normes vinculants per demanar transpar\u00e8ncia a les empreses del sector i retre compte sobre les violacions dels drets humans de qui produeix les peces de roba. Hi ha encara molt cam\u00ed per rec\u00f3rrer, per\u00f2 els aven\u00e7os realitzats fins ara demostren que una ciutadania cada vegada m\u00e9s conscient i responsable pot contribuir al canvi que es necessita.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

OPINI\u00d3 Eleg\u00e0ncia, colors, creativitat. Sabem que vestir-se no \u00e9s nom\u00e9s posar-se la primera roba que trobes obrint l’armari, sin\u00f3 veure’t i sentir-te b\u00e9 en unes peces que fan joc amb la teva personalitat. El mercat fa que les dones siguem […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":91,"featured_media":63879,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[26411],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-67078","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-economia"],"yoast_head":"\nFashion revolution. El m\u00f3n de la moda ha de canviar | La Independent<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"OPINI\u00d3 Eleg\u00e0ncia, colors, creativitat. Sabem que vestir-se no \u00e9s nom\u00e9s posar-se la primera roba que trobes obrint l'armari, sin\u00f3 veure't i sentir-te b\u00e9 en unes peces que fan joc amb la teva personalitat. 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El m\u00f3n de la moda ha de canviar"}]},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/#website","url":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/","name":"La Independent","description":"Ag\u00e8ncia de not\u00edcies amb visi\u00f3 de g\u00e8nere","publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/#organization"},"alternateName":"Ag\u00e8ncia de not\u00edcies amb visi\u00f3 de g\u00e8nere","potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":{"@type":"PropertyValueSpecification","valueRequired":true,"valueName":"search_term_string"}}],"inLanguage":"en-US"},{"@type":"Organization","@id":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/#organization","name":"La Independent","alternateName":"Ag\u00e8ncia de not\u00edcies amb visi\u00f3 de g\u00e8nere","url":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/logo-independent.svg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/logo-independent.svg","width":562,"height":78,"caption":"La Independent"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/"}},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/656761242c5e6c1aeb63e0ea0e0ec992","name":"Gisella Evangelisti","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/wp-content\/litespeed\/avatar\/40b738670c96dc29da4eedfc2edba5e9.jpg?ver=1791998081","url":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/wp-content\/litespeed\/avatar\/40b738670c96dc29da4eedfc2edba5e9.jpg?ver=1791998081","contentUrl":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/wp-content\/litespeed\/avatar\/40b738670c96dc29da4eedfc2edba5e9.jpg?ver=1791998081","caption":"Gisella Evangelisti"},"description":"Literatura en Pisa \/ antropolog\u00eda en Lima \/ mediaci\u00f3n de conflictos en Barcelona. Profesora de secundaria en Italia, y por 20 a\u00f1os en la cooperaci\u00f3n internacional en Am\u00e8rica Latina.","url":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/author\/gisella\/"}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/67078","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/91"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=67078"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/67078\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/63879"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=67078"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=67078"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=67078"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}