{"id":59616,"date":"2014-01-15T23:20:38","date_gmt":"2014-01-15T22:20:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/el-traumatic-salt-de-la-talla-38-a-la-40-de-mango\/"},"modified":"2014-01-15T23:20:38","modified_gmt":"2014-01-15T22:20:38","slug":"el-traumatic-salt-de-la-talla-38-a-la-40-de-mango","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/laindependent.cat\/en\/el-traumatic-salt-de-la-talla-38-a-la-40-de-mango\/","title":{"rendered":"El traum\u00e0tic salt de la talla 38 a la 40 de Mango"},"content":{"rendered":"

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La nova l\u00ednia de roba de dona de la firma Mango ha sortit aquesta setmana amb una campanya de comunicaci\u00f3 i publicitat\u00a0 “desafortunada”, “discriminat\u00f2ria” i de risc perqu\u00e8 plantejen un salt de percepci\u00f3 qualitatiu de la talla 38 a la 40 que pot resultar traum\u00e0tic per al seu p\u00fablic, d’acord a l’an\u00e0lisi de dues expertes consultades per La Independent.<\/em><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

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L’anunci de la sortida al mercat de “Violeta by Mango”<\/em> destinada a cossos m\u00e9s grans de dones joves nom\u00e9s ha aconseguit cr\u00edtiques des de fa diverses setmanes. Si la marca buscava oferir una l\u00ednia per a un n\u00ednxol m\u00e9s ampli i divers, d’acord amb fisonomies reals de les dones, no ha aconseguit el seu objectiu al ser plantejat com “especial” un patr\u00f3 que, si b\u00e9 arriba a la talla 52, s’inicia a la 40.<\/span><\/p>\n

“Quan se separa de manera evident una talla d’una altra per agrupar-la en una categoria diferent, com \u00e9s la talla gran, s’estigmatitza les persones”, afirma M\u00f3nica Figueras<\/strong>, soci\u00f2loga, investigadora en temes de g\u00e8nere i directora en el postgrau de Comunicaci\u00f3 i periodisme de Moda de l’IDEC – UPF.<\/span><\/p>\n

“Si b\u00e9 en cap moment Mango parla de talles grans, el fet de dividir, de ficar els models de la talla 40 fins a la 52 en una mena de calaix, implica posar al mateix nivell totes aquestes talles i aquest fet t\u00e9 efectes negatius”, coincideix M\u00f3nika Jim\u00e9nez<\/strong>, experta en el discurs publicitari de les firmes de moda i professora a la UPF.<\/span><\/p>\n

La Independent<\/strong> ha demanat la versi\u00f3 de l’empresa catalana Mango, per\u00f2 no ha obtingut cap resposta.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"mango<\/span><\/p>\n

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Col\u00b7lectius vulnerables<\/span><\/strong>
Els efectes es poden veure “especialment en determinats col\u00b7lectius, com l’adolescent, per al qual, amb campanyes d’aquest tipus, passar d’una talla 38 a una 40 suposa un veritable trauma”, afegeix Jim\u00e9nez.<\/span><\/p>\n

“Si a aix\u00f2 hi afegim que, en el cas de Mango, la talla 40 \u00e9s considerada com una talla especial, els efectes sobre la percepci\u00f3 de l’autoimatge corporal d’aquest col\u00b7lectiu s\u00f3n altament nocius i, en molts casos, poden ser la base de potencials trastorns alimentaris”, afirma.<\/span><\/p>\n

Figueras tamb\u00e9 coincideix amb aquesta idea en assenyalar que efectivament “la poblaci\u00f3 adolescent \u00e9s molt vulnerable a aquesta pressi\u00f3 ja que est\u00e0 en un moment vital de la construcci\u00f3 de la seva identitat i de la seva reafirmaci\u00f3 com a dones, amb canvis fisiol\u00f2gics i psicol\u00f2gics”. Igualment, afegeix, s\u00f3n vulnerables totes aquelles dones amb manca de seguretat en si mateixes i en el seu propi cos.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\"mango<\/span><\/p>\n

Estrat\u00e8gia desafortunada<\/span><\/strong>
Els col\u00b7lectius feministes en reiterades ocasions s’han mostrat contraris que s’assenyali, referint-se principalment a la talla 38 i altres menors, models ideals de mesures del cos ja que aquestes s\u00f3n totalment allunyades de la realitat i motivades nom\u00e9s per interessos comercials.<\/span><\/p>\n

“\u00c9s clarament una estrat\u00e8gia comercial per ampliar el seu mercat, busquen un n\u00ednxol molt espec\u00edfic que cada vegada \u00e9s m\u00e9s nombr\u00f3s perqu\u00e8 la tend\u00e8ncia \u00e9s el sobrep\u00e8s o ser prima en extrem, i volen explotar aquestes talles”, afirma Figueres.<\/span><\/p>\n

Per a Jim\u00e9nez, el llan\u00e7ament de “Violeta by Mango” obeeix, d’una banda, al clam social d’una normalitzaci\u00f3 del sistema de talles a l’Estat (com la campanya “Motius per donar la talla”,<\/em> de la qual ella \u00e9s co- impulsora) i, d’altra banda, a “aquest inter\u00e8s de Mango per la imatge corporal femenina i, \u00f2bviament, al fet de cobrir n\u00ednxols del mercat encara no saturats”.<\/span><\/p>\n

Si b\u00e9 els objectius comercials de la marca s\u00f3n correctes, afegeix, “considero que la campanya de comunicaci\u00f3 duta a terme \u00e9s absolutament desafortunada per la discriminaci\u00f3 que comporta llan\u00e7ar una l\u00ednia especial”.<\/span><\/p>\n

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A favor de Mango<\/span><\/strong>
Jim\u00e9nez es posiciona a favor de Mango, en dir que “\u00e9s una de les poques empreses de moda espanyola que al llarg dels \u00faltims anys ha mostrat una certa preocupaci\u00f3 pel tema de les talles. En el seu moment van mantenir contactes amb associacions i agents implicats en la lluita contra els trastorns alimentaris. Algunes de les seves recomanacions les van implementar en la seva estrat\u00e8gia de comunicaci\u00f3 diferents elements vinculats a una imatge corporal saludable”.<\/span><\/p>\n

D’altra banda, afegeix, “Mango \u00e9s una de les poques firmes de moda que, fins al moment, disposava de les talles XS i XL en alguns dels seus models (no en totes les botigues), fet que no \u00e9s habitual en totes les marques de roba”.<\/span><\/p>\n

Si b\u00e9 la campanya \u00e9s desencertada, afegeix Figueras, \u00e9s possible que si a la botiga no hi ha una diferenciaci\u00f3 clara en la col\u00b7locaci\u00f3 de talles, si que es mostri la diversitat de manera integrada, i \u00e9s possible que disminueixi l’efecte.<\/span><\/p>\n

Estan establertes com grans les talles a partir de la 48 i acostuma a haver-hi botigues especialitzades per a elles.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Periodisme de moda<\/span><\/strong>
M\u00f2nica Figueras ha afegit que la premsa, generadora d’opini\u00f3, acostuma a no ser cr\u00edtica amb aquest tipus de situacions, ja que no existeix un periodisme especialitzat en moda, i la informaci\u00f3 que es d\u00f3na molt generalista, no buscant experts com portaveus i acceptant la influ\u00e8ncia de la publicitat i la pressi\u00f3 que fan les marques. <\/span><\/p>\n

Les revistes femenines solen respondre a les l\u00f2giques dels anuncis i, respecte a la moda, generen una mena de guetos on marquen c\u00e0nons i sobrepesos en cossos que no els tenen, fet pel qual Figueras reivindica els mitjans alternatius que mostren un altre tipus d’informaci\u00f3 sense influ\u00e8ncies.<\/span><\/p>\n

Per Jim\u00e9nez, cal la implicaci\u00f3 del govern sobre aquest tema, ja que no ha de ser resolt o definit per les marques i empreses, sin\u00f3 pels organismes responsables de la salut p\u00fablica.<\/span><\/p>\n

“Actualment, el propi govern \u00e9s c\u00f2mplice de la discriminaci\u00f3 que pateixen milions de persones en aquest pa\u00eds pel simple fet de no encaixar en el patr\u00f3 que dicta la moda”, afirma.<\/span><\/p>\n

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M\u00e9s informaci\u00f3:<\/span>
<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

M\u00f3nika Jim\u00e9nez<\/span><\/a>
<\/span>
M\u00f3nica Figueras<\/span><\/a>
<\/span>
Mango<\/span><\/a>

<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 La nova l\u00ednia de roba de dona de la firma Mango ha sortit aquesta setmana amb una campanya de comunicaci\u00f3 i publicitat\u00a0 “desafortunada”, “discriminat\u00f2ria” i de risc perqu\u00e8 plantejen un salt de percepci\u00f3 qualitatiu de la talla 38 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":87,"featured_media":29220,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[26695],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-59616","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-publicitat"],"yoast_head":"\nEl traum\u00e0tic salt de la talla 38 a la 40 de Mango | La Independent<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"La nova l\u00ednia de roba de dona de la firma Mango, que ha estat llan\u00e7ada aquesta setmana, \u00e9s una campanya de comunicaci\u00f3 i publicitat desafortunada, discriminat\u00f2ria i de risc perqu\u00e8 planteja un salt de percepci\u00f3 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